Here's a take on it. What do you think about it though?
Dining, as opposed to grabbing a bite to fill the void, is a complete package involving atmosphere, service and personality as much as food and wine. Your buying (renting) your space at this experience and how you pay for it is divided between (among) the price of the food, beverages, wine and gratuity. Viewing the price of the bottle of wine (or the corkage fee) only in the context of retail price plus the cost of washing the glasses is a bit naive.
A retailer turns a profit on his real estate with less staff (ratio per customer) and less investment in periferals; the turn around is economical in the sense that, whether selling a case or a bottle (and even taking into account time spent advising and recommending) each single clerk may accomodate numerous customers and complete numerous transactions in a relatively brief time. The retailer establishes his margins based on how much return he can realise on each square foot (and obviously a store with more space densely populated with a larger selection can work with slimmer margins on greater volume).
A restaurant may accomodate a limited number of patrons in a far more labor intensive relationship complete with servers, runners, hosts, busboys, chefs, sous-chefs, bartenders, barbacks and dishwashers. Your seat at this show is prime real estate that you may occupy for an hour or two hours or more. There are no "volume" purchases that would justify a reduced margin per bottle.
That we may more easily comprehend the value added to the lamb shank by the chefs skill and execution in preparing it, it is nonetheless true that each item from the liquor to the appetizers to the dessert and wine (or corkage fee) must be priced to reflect the costs of the execution of the dining experience.
What's fair, in terms of mark-ups or corkage fees?
Each of us must make that judgement ourselves based on our ability (or willingness) to pay the price of the dining experience and our personal interest in the various elements that make it what it is. There are restaurants that fall into many different levels of expense (and your idea of a beautiful, elegant atmosphere may not match mine) and it is up to each of us to make the choice that we are comfortable with.
As with just about anything else in this world, the most expensive is not always the best and the least expensive is not necessarily the best value".
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